Your first question may be "what is a hayrack?" Just as the name implies, hayracks were used years ago
in English barns to supply hay to farm animals. They were placed up high and the animals could reach up
and pull a mouthful of hay to eat between the widely spaced bars. Old hayracks became treasured antiques
and came to be used outside buildings as attractive planters for flowers.
English hayrack planters are a beautiful alternative to the traditional window box. They have a very classy
and distinctive look, won't dry out as quickly as terra cotta and are made to last. They range in size from
30" to 55" long. There is even a hayrack that is 80" long available upon request. The hayracks we offer
are unrivaled in their quality and made by Tom Chambers Ironworks in England. Each piece is hand-welded steel
and thickly dipped in black plastic for permanent corrosion protection. They come with made-to-fit coco liners
and are deeply proportioned so that your plants grow big and do not dry out quickly.
You will want to install your hayrack to its desired location before planting. Each situation will require a
different fastening method. Remember, though, after the planting medium is added hayracks are quite heavy, so
be sure to fasten your hayrack securely. Wood sidings and wood railing require plated lag bolts or screws.
Masonry will require a masonry drill and plastic anchors for masonry bolts and washers.
Once your hayrack is installed, fill to one inch below the coco liner with a suitable planting medium. For
containers you will want to use a light potting mix with good drainage. Often a soilless mixture is best; they
offer no nutrient value, but the "soil" will not become compacted strangling the roots and you have the added
benefit that they are lightweight and free from soil-borne diseases and weed seeds.
After filling to one inch below the coco liner, add a slow release fertilizer to ensure good plant growth.
If you have installed your hayrack in a sunny location or if you just want to cut down on your watering
requirements, you may want to consider adding Rain-Mats™to your hayrack. You simply place them down at the root
level (approximately one inch from the bottom) creating a stable reservoir which the roots will actually grow
into reducing the need for watering to as little as once every 7 to 10 days.
To create a dramatic planting immediately upon installation of your hayrack, you will want to consider:
PROPORTION:
The definition of proportion is the relation of one part to another. So if you have chosen a very large
hayrack, you will need to choose plants that will look in proportion to the hayrack. For immediate impact,
choose plants that are already large enough to not look dwarfed by the hayrack.
PLANT NEEDS - WATER, SHADE and SUN
It is best to choose plants that have similar needs. For instance, you would not want to plant Impatiens with
the sun loving Zinnia. So look for plants with like needs. For sunny locations and some shade situations herbs
are your perfect plant. Adding herbs will add texture, scent, are good edge fillers and depending on the herb
can offer a trailing effect.
COLOR, SHAPE and TEXTURE
Color affects us psychologically. Warm colors (yellow, orange and red) stand out at a distance, give the
impression of warmth and create excitement and urgency. Cool colors (blues and greens) tend to disappear at a
distance, create a cool feeling and will calm and soothe. Warm colors are often used as accent plants while the
cooler colors are used as backdrops and fillers.
Designers generally use one of four color schemes: analogous, complementary, monochromatic or polychromatic.
Analogous - consists of two, three or four colors that are neighbors on the color wheel,
such as blue-green, blue, blue-violet, and violet. This will create a mood that is peaceful and gentle.
Complementary - uses two colors that are directly opposite on the color wheel, such as yellow-orange
and violet-blue. This will be dramatic and stimulating.
Monochromatic - is a color scheme using only one color plus its own shades and tints; i.e., blue plus
blues with various amounts of black and white added. Tough to create in a garden but easy in a container.
Polychromatic - includes colors from all around the color wheel using the green foliage as a harmonizer.
Shape or Form is the habit of a particular plant. Is it round, conical, weeping or trailing, upright or
spreading? It is the shape and habit that helps you create a strong framework for your planting. In any garden,
and the container garden is no exception, you need a focal point. An upright plant will give you vertical
interest and your eye will be drawn to it first. Trailing plants off the edge of your planter will soften the
edges and create a more finished look.
Texture of plants is divided into three categories: fine, medium and coarse. Textural contrast can be even
more effective than color contrast. Plants that are described as fine in texture are those that are quite soft
and easy on the eye, often having many delicate flowers, such as lobelia or baby's breath. Medium-textured
plants tend to have some distinct shape such as geraniums or flowering tobacco. Coarse plants are those with
very distinct textures such as ornamental cabbages or large begonias.
Create a bold display by combining trailing blues and yellows with columnar spires and feathery foliage.
Use your accent plants in the center with complementary plants surrounding it and trailing herbs or lobelias
softening your edges.
Important Note: If your desire is to create instant impact with your hayrack or hanging basket, pack
it full of plants. Leave no room in the planter and you will have a very dramatic planting.
There is no rule about which plants are for containers and which are not. As long as you provide what the
plant needs - enough room for its roots, water, nutrients and sun or shade - any plant will work in a container.
So be creative! Plant what you like. And remember, your local nursery will help you with what plants will
thrive in your area.
